Galle Face Empathy

"I want you to understand the archaeological surround of a fact. Or you'll be like one of those journalists who files reports about flies and scabs while staying at the Galle Face Hotel. That false empathy and blame." – from this fantastic novel.

I read this while on a veranda overlooking a roaring stretch of Indian Ocean at the Galle Face Hotel.

This is sort of an odd trip. I'm in a place that's dominating the global headlines with a massive unfolding catastrophe, but have no capacity to really understand what's going on or to contribute to any sort of solution. I'm here, essentially then, to sight see–but due to security and scheduling conflicts, I can't really travel to anywhere worth seeing.

So.. I'm just here at a terrible and historic moment, reading novels on the perfect Galle Face veranda, talking to tuk tuk drivers about their families, and having long, late-night conversations with a handful of USAID workers here doing the dirty work. In other words... feigning empathy and blame.

Observations:

– Inside the Colombo airport, there are no less than 35 shops selling washing machines and refrigerators. This says something severe about the culture.. but I'm not sure yet what.

– It's so much of what I loved about India. Technicolored temples. Awkward young men in pants and button-downs cuddling in public places and oppressive heat with young loves. Soldiers holding hands. Head wobbles and sing-song. Color and more color and life. Wonderful food. KFCs on every corner.

– The weather reminds me most of Monrovia. Just a flattening, heavy, salty humidity.

– Huge, huge military presence. Soldiers on every bridge. Checkpoints after checkpoints. Bunkers and anti-aircraft guns all over. It's nothing more than a minor inconvenience for me (I think everything is interesting), but I imagine it's less fun for the 200,000 ethnic Tamils here in the city.
– I've sensed feelings of tension, fear of terrorism, optimism/relief from the ethnic Sinhala, anger/marginalization from the Tamils, embarrassment from all that the country's reputation is getting skewered by the international press. Every westerner I've met describes it differently... and I wonder how much is just what I want to be sensing.

– I've decided, in indulgent over-generalization, that Thais are more polite and less friendly than South Asians. Waiters/shopkeepers/etc here sort of sneer when I walk in, before asking 20 minutes of questions about my love marriage and hair products. I've gotten into almost as many random conversations with strangers in three days here as in seven months in Thailand. I've missed this.